morocco Part II - Chefchaouen to kasbah amridil
Let's take up from the Blue City of Chefchaouen.
After leaving Chefchaouen we stopped for a pomegranate juice break by the Barrage Sidi Chahed Dam, a man made oasis, before continuing our journey to the historic city of Fes. In Fes we stayed in a modern hotel where the rooms had enormous bathrooms. As we had 2 nights in Fes, this was the perfect time and place to get some washing done.
We had great views over the sprawling city from the rooftop restaurant. On our first night we had a lovely dinner in a private riad. We were served a variety of Moroccan salads, all of which were delicious, accompanied by Moroccan bread. We would have been happy to have the salads as our meal and I was already full before the main course of chicken b'stilla was served. The meal ended with a fabulous fruit platter, lemon verbena tea and biscuits. It was a veritable feast however I was too busy eating to take photographs, so you'll have to take my word for it.
The next day began with a visit to the Jewish quarter where we found fresh walnuts and mounds of delicious dates for sale.
We then met our local guide for a tour of Fes. We stopped at the Jewish cemetery, where we were told some of the Jewish history of Fes, but we didn't go inside.
Our next destination was the Royal Palace which is closed to the public. A photo taken in front of the famous Golden doors is a must.
From the Palace we drove to a pottery collective which had some beautiful works on display.
We watched as zellige tiles were painstakingly laid upside down to form intricate patterns. Fes pottery is highly regarded with prices to match.
Following the visit to the ceramics studio, we drove to the fort of Borj Sud for a view over the medina.
The sprawling medina of Fes.
We returned to the medina for a walk through the souk. Our guide grew up in the souk so he knew the streets like the back of his hand.
The souk was an experience. The streets in the souk are narrow and crowded and we were warned if we heard the call 'balak, balak', to get out of the way as it usually heralded the arrival of a donkey or some kind of delivery.
I put my cameras out of harm's way in my bag where they stayed. That's why I don't have any photos of the bazaar to share with you.
We then met our local guide for a tour of Fes. We stopped at the Jewish cemetery, where we were told some of the Jewish history of Fes, but we didn't go inside.
Our next destination was the Royal Palace which is closed to the public. A photo taken in front of the famous Golden doors is a must.
From the Palace we drove to a pottery collective which had some beautiful works on display.
We watched as zellige tiles were painstakingly laid upside down to form intricate patterns. Fes pottery is highly regarded with prices to match.
Following the visit to the ceramics studio, we drove to the fort of Borj Sud for a view over the medina.
The sprawling medina of Fes.
We returned to the medina for a walk through the souk. Our guide grew up in the souk so he knew the streets like the back of his hand.
The souk was an experience. The streets in the souk are narrow and crowded and we were warned if we heard the call 'balak, balak', to get out of the way as it usually heralded the arrival of a donkey or some kind of delivery.
I put my cameras out of harm's way in my bag where they stayed. That's why I don't have any photos of the bazaar to share with you.
I did however take my camera out when we visited the Madrasa al-Attarine, an Islamic learning centre.
Some parts of the Madrasa were well maintained, whilst other areas showed the passage of time.
We also visited the Funduq al Najjarine, some details pictured above, home to the Wood Museum.
The beautiful Najjarine fountain.
How could I not photograph the infamous Chouara Tannery with it's pungent odour and scenes straight from Dante's Inferno?
Fes was a lot, so please don't judge me, but the highlight of my day was a visit to Carrefour, a French owned supermarket. When I travel I just love to visit local supermarkets. This Carrefour had an in-house bakery, a cheese shop, a butcher and a separate wine shop. I roamed up and down the shopping aisles along with middle class Fes locals and loads of tourists. As I was desperately missing my usual breakfast of muesli, fruit and yoghurt, I left with a punnet of raspberries to tide me over.
We also visited the Funduq al Najjarine, some details pictured above, home to the Wood Museum.
The beautiful Najjarine fountain.
How could I not photograph the infamous Chouara Tannery with it's pungent odour and scenes straight from Dante's Inferno?
Fes was a lot, so please don't judge me, but the highlight of my day was a visit to Carrefour, a French owned supermarket. When I travel I just love to visit local supermarkets. This Carrefour had an in-house bakery, a cheese shop, a butcher and a separate wine shop. I roamed up and down the shopping aisles along with middle class Fes locals and loads of tourists. As I was desperately missing my usual breakfast of muesli, fruit and yoghurt, I left with a punnet of raspberries to tide me over.
The next day we left Fes for the Midelt Valley, an apple growing region of Morocco but not before a brief stop at Ifrane for cake and coffee.
Ifrane is known as the 'Chamonix of Morocco' because of it's cooler climate, distinctive architecture and leafy parks.
Our accommodation for the night was a riad located in an orchard.
You could walk down the olive grove to the lake and conservation area.
It was hot, dry and dusty so the locals workers chose to ride instead.
Ifrane is known as the 'Chamonix of Morocco' because of it's cooler climate, distinctive architecture and leafy parks.
Our accommodation for the night was a riad located in an orchard.
You could walk down the olive grove to the lake and conservation area.
It was hot, dry and dusty so the locals workers chose to ride instead.
It's hard to believe a nectarine orchard can thrive in this location.
The backdrop might be the Atlas Mountains but you could have been anywhere in the world.
I hummed the theme song to 'Baghdad Cafe' as I took this photo.
I passed this donkey on my walk back. The donkey is definitely a beast of burden in Morocco.
We were told that we could eat any of the fruit we found and it took me a while before I located the much promised grapes. They were delicious.
Later that afternoon we drove a short distance to a local apple orchard. The farmer took us for a walk around the orchard and the local village.
The apples had already been harvested so we were free to eat as many as we liked. We picked so many apples we ended up eating them for days.
A stork's nest, something seen all over Morocco.
When we returned from our walk through the village we were taught how to make Moroccan semolina pancakes, known as Msenmen. Some of us did better than others and I'm looking forward to making some at home.
We ate the Msenmen, expertly made by the farmer's wife, for our afternoon tea in the garden. Although I've had mint tea before it was a wildly different experience taken in an apple orchard under a setting sun. It was an absolute highlight of the trip.
Midelt was the midway point between Fes and the Desert Camp in Merzouga. We stopped at a covered market en route to Merzouga to pick up some lunch.
Before we arrived at Merzouga, we stopped for a tour of a fossil factory in nearby Erfoud where slabs of fossils are polished and turned into coffee tables, benchtops and hand basins. You can see an ammonite and some squid in this slab.
Our destination for the night was the Desert Camp at Erg Chebbi.
When we returned from our walk through the village we were taught how to make Moroccan semolina pancakes, known as Msenmen. Some of us did better than others and I'm looking forward to making some at home.
We ate the Msenmen, expertly made by the farmer's wife, for our afternoon tea in the garden. Although I've had mint tea before it was a wildly different experience taken in an apple orchard under a setting sun. It was an absolute highlight of the trip.
Midelt was the midway point between Fes and the Desert Camp in Merzouga. We stopped at a covered market en route to Merzouga to pick up some lunch.
Before we arrived at Merzouga, we stopped for a tour of a fossil factory in nearby Erfoud where slabs of fossils are polished and turned into coffee tables, benchtops and hand basins. You can see an ammonite and some squid in this slab.
Our destination for the night was the Desert Camp at Erg Chebbi.
The view from the pool. It doesn't look real, does it?
Although we could use the pool we didn't stay in the hotel. Our accommodation for the night were tents.
Although we could use the pool we didn't stay in the hotel. Our accommodation for the night were tents.
Some of the tents were more luxurious than others.
We waited for the sun to set before going on our camel ride.
My ride was 'Jonathan', the camel with the yellow livery. He was quite happy having a rest and was none too happy having to ferry me across the sand dunes.
Our guides, who took care of us and made sure that no-one came to any harm.
The next morning a few of us rose to watch the sun rise over the dunes.
It was a magical experience.
After breakfast it was back on the bus for our journey to the M'Goun Valley via the Todra Gorge.
Before we drove down to the gorge, we stopped at the Tinghir Oasis with it's beautiful palm grove.
After we parked the bus, we walked down to the Gorge. I don't know what I expected from the Gorge other than natural beauty.
Dodging cars and buses as they drove through the gorge I didn't expect.
We waited for the sun to set before going on our camel ride.
My ride was 'Jonathan', the camel with the yellow livery. He was quite happy having a rest and was none too happy having to ferry me across the sand dunes.
Our guides, who took care of us and made sure that no-one came to any harm.
The next morning a few of us rose to watch the sun rise over the dunes.
It was a magical experience.
After breakfast it was back on the bus for our journey to the M'Goun Valley via the Todra Gorge.
Before we drove down to the gorge, we stopped at the Tinghir Oasis with it's beautiful palm grove.
After we parked the bus, we walked down to the Gorge. I don't know what I expected from the Gorge other than natural beauty.
Dodging cars and buses as they drove through the gorge I didn't expect.
I also didn't expect to find road side stalls.
I didn't expect to see vendors cooling off in the river.
I didn't expect to see vendors cooling off in the river.
I was probably expecting more of these uninterrupted scenic vistas.
After lunch we made our way to Ait Ouassif in the Valley of the Roses where we spent 2 nights.
My room overlooked a stream and I was woken by the sound of running water, an unfamiliar sound in drought stricken Morocco.
We started the day with a walk around the village and through the fields.
In the main women were the ones tending the fields. Requests to take photographs were politely declined.
My room overlooked a stream and I was woken by the sound of running water, an unfamiliar sound in drought stricken Morocco.
We started the day with a walk around the village and through the fields.
In the main women were the ones tending the fields. Requests to take photographs were politely declined.
This lady passed by with her laden donkey.
We passed by fields of corn and alfafa, groves of fig, olive and pomegranate trees and many, many donkeys.
We feasted on the ripe figs and promegranates and they were delicious.
As we crossed the river we saw these boys splashing about.
They were certainly having fun.
Schools run half days from Monday to Saturday. They must have afternoon classes in the village because we saw loads of children on our morning walk.
Including these ragamuffins comparing their gifts.
We passed by fields of corn and alfafa, groves of fig, olive and pomegranate trees and many, many donkeys.
We feasted on the ripe figs and promegranates and they were delicious.
As we crossed the river we saw these boys splashing about.
They were certainly having fun.
Schools run half days from Monday to Saturday. They must have afternoon classes in the village because we saw loads of children on our morning walk.
Including these ragamuffins comparing their gifts.
The children appear mesmerised. I think John may have been performing one of his party tricks.
After lunch a local Amazigh lady came to the guesthouse for a henna afternoon. Ignore the wrinkled skin and focus on the design! She was very talented.
The next day we were off to the kasbah(s). We stopped to photograph the Kasbah Itran.
We did however go on a guided tour of the Kasbah Amridil.
The kasbah was built in the 17 century so it's in a constant state of renovation/restoration.
A little museum was set up around the courtyard garden.
The serene shaded garden.
The simple interiors.
I found this kasbah quite fascinating. After our visit to the kasbah we drove on to the World Heritage site of Ait Benhaddou but as I've covered quite a lot of territory in this post, I'll close here.
The simple interiors.
I found this kasbah quite fascinating. After our visit to the kasbah we drove on to the World Heritage site of Ait Benhaddou but as I've covered quite a lot of territory in this post, I'll close here.
I'll see you all again next week with Part III of my trip to Morocco from Ait Benhaddou to Marrakech.
Bye for now,
Jillian
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